Pink and red eyeshadow looks are still having a moment and Valentine’s Day is the perfect time to go all-in with a romantic smoky look featuring wine and soft rose shades.
The Kat von D’s Lolita and Urban Decay’s Naked Cherry palettes are both good for this type of look, but you could use singles, too, like Urban Decay’s Roach (metallic burgundy-brown, $20.00 at Sephora) or Make Up For Ever’s Burgundy ($17.00, Sephora) for the darker shade and Cover Girl’s Knock Out Pink ($3.19, Target) or Make Up For Ever’s Antique Pink ($17.00) for the lighter pink tone.
You’ll also need two more shades: one that’s a little darker than your skin tone and one that’s a little lighter. These will be used for blending the color out and keeping it from looking too harsh.
First, skip the foundation and concealer. You may end up with fallout from the shadows and it’ll be easier to brush it away from your bare skin than remove it from your face makeup. Apply an eyeshadow primer to hold your eyeshadows in place all night. Urban Decay’s Primer Potion ($24.00, Ulta) or Too Faced Shadow Insurance ($20.00, Ulta) will be perfect. Keep in mind, Primer Potion is usually better for oily skin, while Shadow Insurance is great for dry skin.
Use a medium-sized flat brush to pat the darkest shade all over your lid, careful not to go above the crease near the inner corner (you may have to turn your brush sideways to work the color in there without going too far outside the lines). Take a clean fluffy, tapered brush and run it back and forth over the edge of the deep shade to soften the edge and pull the color up and out, almost to the crease.
Use your rose or light pink shade in the crease and just above it. This shade will overlap the diffused edge of the deeper one you just worked with. Use the same fluffy brush (clean it off first so the dark color is gone) to run the pink shade back and forth in the actual crease.
Extend the pink just past the crease on the outer edge, flicking the brush up toward the tip of your brow rather than straight out toward your ear. Keep the color close to the crease but make sure a sliver of it is still visible when your eyes are open.
You’ll need to apply one more color with that tapered, fluffy brush and windshield wiper motion. This time, it’ll be just a hint of the shade you chose that’s a little darker than your skin tone. Layer that over the edge of the pink near the crease and lightly sweep that up toward the brow bone.
Be sure to leave a gap between the end of that color and your brow. All this shade is meant to do is provide a neutral anchor for the whole look and transition the more intense shades to the highlight color that will tie everything together.
Finally, with a flat brush, apply the shade that’s lighter than your skin tone just under the arch of the brow. Run your brush back and forth over that area to fade the edges out. You can apply more in the inner corner, especially nice if there’s a pearly sheen in the shade you chose. This will add light and brightness back to the eye area to balance the smoky effect.
Brush away any fallout you’ve had and apply your foundation and concealer. With a pencil brush (sturdy, tapered, and relatively thin), take the darker shade and trace about three-fourths of the lower lash line, starting at the outer corner. Diffuse the edge of that line with the lighter pink shade.
Line your upper lash line with a black or deep plum kohl liner and then use your pencil brush to smudge the wine shade (or something even darker, if you’re working from a palette and have a darker shade available) along that line. Use a waterline-friendly black liner like Urban Decay’s 24/7 ($21.00, Sephora) to line the lower waterline.
Finish your look with an inky black, thickening mascara like Lancôme’s Monsieur Big ($25.00, Macy’s). Keep the blush neutral—not too peachy or pink—and opt for drama with a wine-colored lipstick, or create balance with a nude lipstick or gloss.
Optional extra touches: Contouring with a matte shade beneath the cheekbones and a pearly or matte highlight shade for the tops of the cheekbones. You could use the neutral shadows you used on your eyes for this since they were based on your skin tone.